Recovery Ride

The next morning we both awoke, quite fried from our long ride the day before. It was raining outside and the weather channel promised more of that to come. The low pressure system up North, in western Idaho, was sliding South into Utah. It looked like we we going to be chased by it, at least to the New Mexico border, for the next two days

We climbed the seemingly small Trout Creek Pass and began a rapid loss of elevation into Buena Vista, CO. Skies began to brighten up a bit and snowy peaks showed their faces.

Dan was feeling better and having an 'easy day' seemed to be working for him. We continued southwards to Poncha Springs, CO. We ran into three Denver cyclists training for a trans-America ride (Washington to Maine). They were due to start in a month. Our main advise was to take less of whatever they thought they needed. They could buy something later if they really decided they needed it. Every pound counts in distance touring!

Our cozy 'Mom and Pop' motel greeted us at the end of our 'easy day' of 57 miles. We had climbed only 1,500' today, so that was nice.

We gave our cycling muscles some much needed therapy in the motel hot tub. Well-deserved!

New Mexico or "Bust"!

May 14th arrived and so had Dan, except he was nearly on death's doorstep. Fatigued from a stressful week in Indiana due to an unexpected funeral, and all clogged up by allergies and bronchitis, he had trekked up from NM half-doubting whether he should even ride. I hardly expected him to show up, but he gamely did, so our ride was still on. At 8:30am, we took last photos at Lake Granby and started South facing a real test of his health. Day 1 would entail 114 miles, 5,700' climbing and a high point of 11,538' at mile 100 no less!! Rain and snow were in the forecast, a low pressure system headed our way...

A least we are riding I thought, trying to repress doubts about Dan's health. I looked back and he was nowhere to be  seen. I stopped, peered back, yet still couldn't spot him. He'd been on my wheel about three miles back, gee we were only seven miles from our start. Where was he? I got off my bike stretched a bit. After 10 minutes I started cycling back. A couple miles later he appeared... a flat tire already! We had three spare tubes to start with and now were down to just two. I was sure we'd need all three tubes for the goathead thorns of New Mexico. This was not promising!

By Kremmling CO, only 40 miles into our day, it was apparent that Dan was really suffering. There was no way he could stay on my rear wheel and draft, and I wasn't pushing it at all. At the gas station bathroom break he looked pretty grim. I gamely encouraged him, but this was going to be the mother-of-all suffer-fest days for him. The upcoming 5 mile stretch of road construction didn't help. While he privately suffered, I wondered about getting the likely-hood more flats on this gravel section with our skinny 25mm road tires?

We stopped, sipped from our water bottles, and talked. Dan needed help. He was just too sick to push it. The only solution that I could offer was to take some of his gear. So I strapped his extra-large 'bike packing' rear seat bag onto my bike and started off. It wasn't too heavy, but it at least gave Dan some moral support. He struggled onwards to Lake Dillion and Frisco. (In the photo, the large seat bag on the white bike is Dan's. He used that and a day pack. I used only a day pack))

We turned a short break into a long one at the Frisco Safeway store. We lounged in the sun, refueled our bodies. Dan was despondent, but I keep encouraging him. He had done 60 miles so far. After an  hour we cycled to Breckenridge. The ski runs were still ski-able and the white-capped mountain views amazing.

As we climbed past 10,200', I was feeling the altitude and needed to shed Dan's gear. At least I had helped carry it for 30 miles and 2,000' of climbing. Dan would need carry it over the Pass, another 1,300' higher. Dan seemed stronger now, perhaps getting his second wind. He pushed the pace up the Pass, I drafted for the first time all day.

Near the summit of Hoosier Pass a storm blew in; so bad in fact a motorist stopped to see if we need a ride. Sleet blew sideways, and the altitude taxed our lungs. but no way were were going to stop now! Victory was a few pedal strokes away. Finally at mile 100 exactly, we to reached the summit. In stormy weather we took photos and enjoyed a fast (48 mph) 14 mile decent into Fairplay CO. An epic ride of 114 miles 5,700' of climbing up to 11,538' had been accomplished. A day for the personal record book that's for sure. Dan had suffered greatly, but he had done it!

Chow time ;)

Speed Touring

Soon after last Autumn's grueling but rewarding Alaska bike tour, I wondered what would be next on my biking agenda? The thought of another epic gravel road, self-supported tour was not so attractive yet to me. The ideal place for that would be Alaska again, or Canada. Lots of woods to camp in, mountains and rivers to enjoy. But this option would require another major commitment of time and resources to fly to and from suitable start and finish points. Perhaps something less ambitious logistically and lighter weight could be the solution?

Mid-winter I received a wedding invitation from an old high school friend down in New Mexico. He and I had done many epic backpacking trips together in New Mexico and Alaska. Going to his daughter's wedding would give us a chance to reconnect. Logistically it would be easy for me to bike down (455 miles) and have my wife drive down for the wedding a few days later, then we'd both return by car to Colorado. So now I had a date and a method to haul my tired butt and bike back home. All I needed was a speedy partner to draft all the way South!

Dan was definitely the "Man"! A former collegiate triathlete and still a training machine at age 31, he'd be the spur to my side to keep me training all winter. There's nothing like the ego of an aging ex-bike racer, like myself, to bite off more than one should. Dan and I had enjoyed friendly sparing over the years, battling it out on big mountain rides. I knew he'd be the right guy for this ride. Easy going, enthusiastic and fit, he'd be a great companion for the many days we'd spend together.

The winter passed with Dan training away in New Mexico and myself in Colorado. Frequent text message training reports were passed back and forth. Lots of friendly cagoling on each other's progress went on.  Dan's Strava online reports were getting out of hand; his 100 mile rides and big vertical days (over 5,000') were getting me concerned. Was he going to burn out prematurely or just plainly leave me in his dust?! I did my normal weekend nordic skiing workouts but added 2-3 days cycling midweek. That was a real challenge during a seemingly wetter Winter and Spring than normal in Colorado. I had many unpleasant training days that's for sure. The dream of warm cycling in the New Mexico sun kept me spinning those gears winter-long. As we wheeled off, my longest training ride to date had only been 65 miles long...I was definitely counting on my nordic skiing fitness to save me!

A Few Stats

I case you are planning to bike the Dalton Highway yourself, the mud and snow not withstanding, here's a few stats from my ride. My ride was from North to South. If there is to be any tailwind, it will be from the NE or NW typically. The hill climbs are supposed to be a bit harder going southward. The hardest hills are south of the Arctic Circle to Fox.  The travel logistics are a bit easier if one flies first into Deadhorse and then finishes up in Fairbanks. June is normally the month of choice for good weather. July can be smoky from forest fires and August very rainy. September has snow beginning early in the month.

My trip dates: Sept 6th - 14th

Day 1.  48 miles  Prudhoe Bay - Pump Station 2 area
Day 2.  54 miles  Pump Station 2 area  - Pump Station 3 area
Day 3.  53 miles  Pump Station 3  area to 5 miles past Pump Station 4
Day 4.  59 miles  (Atigun Pass). Pump Station 4 - Dietrich River
Day 5.  25 miles  Dietrich River to Coldfoot
Day 6.  60 miles  Coldfoot to Arctic Circle
Day 7.  60 miles  Arctic Circle to Yukon River
Day 8.  60 miles  Yukon River to Elliot Highway Junction
Day 9.  71 miles  Elliot Highway Junction to Fox

Total mileage ridden 490 miles and total vertical climbed, a massive 33,348 feet!

Here's a graph showing the route's elevation profile. Note that the highest point is Atigun Pass at 4,738 ft. The hills really get frequent and steep after Coldfoot Camp, located halfway at 250 miles on the graph. One starts the trip at sea level in Prudhoe Bay.

Choice of bicycle is up to you. My earlier post on "The Bicycle" covers this subject. Just make sure you have super low gears for the hills and fat tires for the mud and gravel!

Lodging in Deadhorse is $160 per night at the Prudhoe Bay hotel, but includes unlimited meals and snacks at the workers' cafeteria. A room at the Coldfoot truck stop is $160 with meals extra. Typical Fairbanks lodging is $160-$180 per night during the summer tourist season. Fairbanks' campgrounds charge $25 for a single tent, but they close around Sept 1 for the winter.

No rental car company in Alaska will rent you a car or RV for use on the gravel Dalton Highway.

Pistols cannot be purchased by out of state residents, so you will have to bring your own or borrow one. Unloaded pistols (in locked case) and ammo can be shipped (separately from gun) inside your luggage to Alaska. Bear spray and air horns available everywhere in Fairbanks.

Fairbanks is the logistical hub/resupply center for the interior and arctic Alaska. There are major grocery stores and big box retailers in town. Prices are reasonable. Beaver Sports is a great outdoor gear/bike shop if you need camping or bike supplies. REI is also in town now. Goldstream Sports, on the edge of town, is the headquarters for hardcore cyclists/triathletes/nordic skiers.

You can fly and ship your bike via Alaska Airlines and Ravn Air to Deadhorse Airport. Prudhoe Bay Hotel is right across the street from the terminal.

There is no cell service for nearly 500 miles! Only two truck stops for 500 miles! Resupply can to mailed to the Coldfoot Camp post office (open just 3 afternoons a week). Be self-sufficient and enjoy this amazing and challenging wilderness bike ride!

A link to the BLM guide for cyclists doing the Dalton Highway: 
https://www.alaskageographic.org/uploads/pdf/dalton-vg2014-web.pdf 

Furballs and Firearms

Several folks have asked me about the pistol they have seen in my photographs, and why it was needed? It is a bit difficult to explain this to folks who have not spent much time in the Alaskan bush. To an Alaskan having a firearm is quite normal, even expected.  Alaska is a huge area with few roads and towns. Wildlife truly abounds here. They are a special part of the Alaskan experience. One routinely sees bears, wolves, moose, caribou. In an area 2 1/2 times the size of Texas, spanning 1,480 miles by 810 miles, one is always in Nature's backyard.

Bear encounters are routine in Alaska. In fact, at my field project this summer, we had encounters on a near daily basis for a month. Air horns generally scare them off and all personnel carry pepper spray.  Scientists, Fish and Game personnel and geologists routinely carry a firearm in the field. I personally know a geologist that was severely mauled by a grizzly bear in 2010. I have also met another geologist that nearly lost his life in a bear attack.

Paranoia about bear attacks is not useful. Proper precautions with food handling, food storage and bear awareness in brushy areas is all that is normally needed. Pepper spray is very effective. In one study of 176 encounters where bear spray was used, only three people had injuries; and those injured only had scratches with no fatalities to humans or the bears.

Now a can of pepper spray is not as assuring as packing a big 'ole gun on one's hip, that's for sure! So most Alaskans carry a magnum-sized caliber pistol, assuming they don't already have a shotgun with slugs along too. Shotguns are the first choice,  though not as convenient nor handy while working in the brush. Statistically firearms are not a better choice than bear spray. In 269 close-quarter encounters using a firearm, 151 people were still injured (some killed) by the bear and 172 bears killed. Handguns actually were slightly better at stopping the the bear's aggression than rifles, 84 versus 76.

So if handguns are less effective than bear spray, why did I find myself pedaling along with a massive .44 magnum pistol in my handlebar bag? Was this some Clint Eastwood "Dirty Harry" fantasy on my part?! Wolves, that is why.

These photos were taken from the inside of my work truck just 10 days before I started my bike ride. These three wolves were totally unafraid and surrounded my truck. The two projects I have worked in the Brooks Range have both had very active wolf packs in the area. At both locations wolves came through camp routinely. At camp closing day, 3 days before my ride, there were two wolves spotted down at our dirt airstrip. A single can of bear spray would not fend off several wolves intent on getting you. In some historical accounts people have been killed by large packs, even while armed. In one incident the remains of the person was surrounded by 16 wolves he had killed in defense before dying himself. A coworker of mine has seen a massive pack of nearly 60 wolves near our unoccupied project camp in winter, during an aerial reconnaissance.

A few selected wolf encounters:

2006 A wolf chases a bicyclist down the Dalton Highway; before being run over by a trucker, saving the cyclist
2006 A wolf bit a woman near the Arctic Circle on the Dalton Highway
2006 A group of bus tourists were approached by a wolf on the Dalton Highway
2006 Motorcyclist was chased by a wolf on Dalton Highway
2010 Jogger killed by two wolves in Alaska
2012 Snowmobile rider attacked by wolf in Alaska
2013 In two separate incidents cyclists were attacked by wolves and rescued by motorists in Canada
2014 Female snowshoe hiker and her 4 dogs attacked by lone wolf in Alaska

This is not a rant about how we ought to be exterminating wolves, especially in the western USA. I find wolves and bears an interesting and necessary part of the ecosystem. Just be prepared if you go into their backyard...

For the touring cyclist or backpacker in Alaska,  I'd recommend a lightweight handgun with 2 clips of ammo for wolf protection. Also bring along a small air horn and bear spray for the bears. You'll sleep well at night then!

Fairbanks or Bust!

I was now within striking distance of Fairbanks. It was 74 miles to Fox and another 10 miles to Fairbanks. I could taste the cold beer on my lips now! My sleeping bag was wet once again and I was determined to make it to Fairbanks today, come hell or high water. What I didn't expect were even more extreme hills, more mud, plus freezing rain and snow. It seems nature was really trying to crush me. After 9 days of cycling, with only 2 months of exercise bike training under my belt, I dug about as deep into myself as I ever had before to complete my ride. Endless grades, under wet gloomy clouds, almost crushed my spirits. My feet were so numb from the wet slush that often I'd stop and walk to get the circulation flowing again. This in spite of wearing a polyester liner sock, a thick wool sock and neoprene cycling booties! My hands were frozen and useless, my Windstopper gloves totally soaked. Several times I'd have to stop and wring out all the icy water from my gloves.

 VIDEO LINK

For nearly 20 miles I battled and clawed my way through slush and steep grades. I had a long terrifying descent down Wickersam Dome, in slush and thick fog. Definitely one of those "must not fall" situations. My rear brake was frozen open and unusable, plus the road surface was too slick to use my front brake. At high speed, on the edge of control, I sped down the mountain.

Near dusk I reach Fox and the welcoming lights of the the Silver Gulch Brewery. This was it, end of the ride. I was frozen top to bottom, there would be no more cycling into Fairbanks 10 miles away. Dripping wet I went inside and stripped off wet layers in the restroom. The rain pounded outside and darkness fell. I drank deeply of my first beer in 9 days. It had been a challenging ride and today was beyond category. Fox was enough, as I had cycled here many times before from Fairbanks. The link complete. Nearly 500 miles accomplished under trying conditions. That was something to be proud of. I was ready to go home now, finally.

Hill Country Hell

Saying adieu to the Yukon River, I pedaled away in rain and cold 40 degree temperatures. The road was muddy, but not the same super-sticky variety of yesterday. The hills were a major challenge. So far I hadn't had to walk or push my bike for 350 miles. Today's hills would crush that record and my ego. Six different times I'd have to dismount and push my heavily-ladened bike up another muddy hill. This was like the hills of Kentucky, straight up and then straight down. Unnamed grades, repeating themselves over and over.
 VIDEO LINK

Often I'd go through vast areas of old burns too. Alaska is too big to economically put out forest fires, so they spread until autumn rains and winter snows extinguish them. Mid-summer Alaska is often quite smokey due to these fires. At least I didn't have that to contend with too!

Fairbanks had had lots of smoke this summer, pity the visitors doing their big Alaska adventure vacation. A photo from this summer's Fairbanks newspaper.

After a super hilly day I finally reached the Elliot Highway. The 414 mile Dalton Highway had been conquered, well,  more like endured. I was psyched to reach this goal. The road junction signs were plastered with stickers and memorabilia from cyclists and motorcyclist who had passed this way. The goal to ride from the Arctic to Tierra del Fuego, at the tip of South America, is a "bucket list" goal for a few crazy souls. I enjoyed looking at the stickers and marveled at the adventures of the individuals they represented.

VIDEO LINK

I spun down a side road and set my tent up for the night, dreams of Patagonia in my mind.